The White Mountains of western Crete above the Omalos plateau

How to Get to the Samaria Gorge and Back: Buses, the €10 Ticket, Entry Times and the Ferry from Agia Roumeli

Published 30 September 2026 · Independent guide

The Samaria Gorge is one of the great walks of Europe: a descent of about 16 km from the White Mountains of western Crete to the Libyan Sea, through a canyon that narrows at its most famous point to just a few metres. It is also a logistical puzzle. The walk is one-way; the start is high on a mountain plateau, the finish is a village with no road, and the only way home is a boat. Get the timings right and the day flows beautifully; get them wrong and you can miss the last boat.

This guide explains how the day works, the ticket and entry rules, how to reach the top by bus or car, how to get back from Agia Roumeli, what happens when the weather closes the gorge, and when an organised tour makes more sense.

The gorge at a glance

  • The national park opens from 1 May to 31 October, 7 am to 4 pm, with entrances at Xyloskalo and Agia Roumeli.
  • The path inside the gorge is 13 km, plus 3 km from the south entrance to Agia Roumeli: about 16 km in all.
  • An average crossing takes about 6–7 hours.
  • The natural direction is downhill, from Xyloskalo at 1,227 m to sea level at Agia Roumeli.
  • The gorge became a national park in 1962, especially as a refuge for the rare kri-kri, the Cretan wild goat, and UNESCO has designated the gorge a Biosphere Reserve.

How the day works

The classic Samaria day is a one-way journey:

  • Up by bus from Chania to Xyloskalo, the northern entrance on the Omalos plateau.
  • Down on foot through the gorge to its southern exit and on to Agia Roumeli on the coast.
  • Out by boat from Agia Roumeli, because Agia Roumeli is not connected to the road network; the only ways there are on foot or by boat.
  • Home by bus from the ferry port back to Chania.

Buses run from Chania to Xyloskalo; the return from Agia Roumeli is by boat. Every part of the plan hangs on that final boat. That is why the timings in this guide matter: the buses up are early, the entry window for the full route is limited, and the boat and bus combination that gets you back to Chania leaves in the late afternoon.

Tickets

  • An entrance ticket, bought online from NECCA, is mandatory, and its revenue pays for cleaning and maintaining the path, the infrastructure and the supervision of the gorge.
  • An individual ticket costs €10.00.
  • Keep your ticket to be checked at the exit, so the rangers know everyone who entered has left.

Buy your ticket before the day, and keep it safe in your pocket or on your phone for the whole walk.

Opening hours and entry times

The gorge’s hours are designed to make sure everyone gets out before dark.

  • Entry for the whole route, or part of it, is allowed from 07:00 to 13:00; from 13:00 visitors may walk only the first 2 km from either entrance, and everyone must leave the park by 18:00.
  • Enter the gorge at Xyloskalo as early as possible, both for cooler walking and to leave time for the boat.

Weather closures

The gorge is a mountain environment, and the park closes it when conditions are dangerous.

  • The gorge can close for a day or more if rain or a heatwave is expected; the decision is taken the day before.
  • Closures follow the weather forecast: on 30 September 2026 the gorge was closed at both entrances because forecast rainfall exceeded the safety thresholds, with an update promised at 06:30.
  • Especially in autumn, the gorge may be open but wind can stop the boats leaving Agia Roumeli, so you might have to stay the night.

Check the park’s announcements the evening before and again in the morning, particularly in spring and autumn. If the gorge is closed on your chosen day, keep a second date in reserve if your trip allows it, or switch to a shorter walk up from Agia Roumeli on a day when the weather improves. If you book a tour, check the operator’s terms for days when the park closes.

Getting to the top: by public bus

From Chania

  • KTEL buses leave Chania for Xyloskalo every day at 05:00, 07:45 and 08:45.
  • The public bus from Chania to Omalos takes about 60 minutes.

The early buses get you to the gate soon after it opens, giving you the whole day in the gorge. The later buses still work, but leave less time before entry closes for the full route at 13:00 and before the evening boat.

From Sougia

A bus also leaves Sougia for Xyloskalo every day at 07:00. Note that morning buses from Sougia and Paleochora do not run on Sundays.

At Omalos

The information centre at Omalos, with an exhibition on the protected area, is free to visit, and worth a few minutes before you start.

Staying at Omalos

To avoid the early-morning bus, you can stay the night before in a hotel at Omalos, and walk to the gate at opening time.

Getting back: the boat from Agia Roumeli

The boat

ANENDYK boats leave Agia Roumeli at 17:30 for Chora Sfakion or Sougia, where buses wait for the return to Chania. Once the gorge opens, boats between Chora Sfakion, Loutro and Agia Roumeli run about 2–3 times a day, and the Paleochora–Sougia–Agia Roumeli route once a day.

  • The boat between Agia Roumeli and Chora Sfakion takes about an hour, a little longer to Paleochora.
  • Boats may be delayed or cancelled in bad weather.

The buses back to Chania

Return buses to Chania leave Chora Sfakion at 18:30 and Sougia at 18:15, after the ferry arrives. They are timed to meet the boat, so you do not need to rush from the quay.

The last kilometres

The path inside the gorge is 13 km, plus 3 km from the south entrance to Agia Roumeli, and tired legs may welcome a lift: a private minibus at the gorge exit can take you to Agia Roumeli, saving the last kilometres.

Getting there by car

Driving to Xyloskalo is possible, but it creates a problem: your car is at the top, and you finish at the bottom. If you drive to Xyloskalo, take the boat from Agia Roumeli to Sougia and the bus back up to Omalos, or arrange a taxi. A bus from Sougia back to Xyloskalo leaves at 18:15, after the ferry arrives, for those who parked there. It works, but for most visitors the bus from Chania is simpler.

Timing the day

The easiest way to plan is to work backwards from the boat.

  • The boat leaves Agia Roumeli at 17:30. Aim to arrive in the village with time to spare for a swim and a meal.
  • The walk takes about 6–7 hours at an average pace, plus rests. Walk slowly and take several stops, as the park advises.
  • Entry for the full route closes at 13:00, but starting that late leaves almost no margin. An entry soon after 07:00, from one of the early buses, is far more comfortable.
  • Everyone must leave the park by 18:00, so the gorge is not a place to linger into the evening.

If you are slow on descents, or want time for photographs, the earliest bus from Chania is the safest choice.

Where to base yourself

  • Chania has the buses up to Xyloskalo and back from the ferry ports, making it the natural base for a day trip.
  • Omalos, on the plateau at the top, lets you start at opening time without a pre-dawn bus.
  • Agia Roumeli, at the bottom, is where the park recommends spending the night after the walk.
  • Chora Sfakion and Sougia, the ferry ports, are good bases for exploring the south coast before or after.

Rules that affect your plans

  • Camping in any form and staying the night in the park are prohibited, so you must be out by closing.
  • Dogs are allowed only on a lead.
  • Swimming in the park’s rivers and streams is prohibited; save your swim for the sea at Agia Roumeli.
  • Smoking is allowed only at the rest stations.
  • Drinking alcohol is prohibited in the park.

What to bring

  • Clothing and sun protection: visitors need suitable clothing, footwear and sun protection (hat and sunscreen).
  • Medication: bring any medication you may need, and report health problems to the park rangers.
  • Food: there are no shops in the gorge.
  • A water bottle to refill at the springs.
  • Swimwear for the sea at the end.
  • Your ticket, kept safe for the exit check, and cash or a card for the boat and bus.

Organised tours

If you would rather not juggle buses and boats, a tour handles the transport, and some add a guide.

Full-day trek from Chania. Coach to Omalos in the White Mountains and breakfast, then the walk down the gorge at your own pace to the village of Agia Roumeli. Pickup from Chania. A full day.

Samaria with a hiking guide. The 16 km gorge from Chania with a hiking guide carrying radios, a safety briefing before you start and the ferry from Agia Roumeli. About 14 hours.

Full-day trek from Rethymno. The same gorge day with pickup in Rethymno and a guide.

Samaria from Heraklion, Agia Pelagia or Malia. A long day from the Heraklion area to Omalos and down the 17 km gorge. About 12 hours.

Samaria the easy way. Bus to Chora Sfakion and the ferry to Agia Roumeli, then a walk up from the south end of the gorge towards the Iron Gates. A shorter walk, about 9 hours in all.

The tours page lists them all with live prices.

Shorter options

Not everyone wants the full descent. You can:

  • Walk up from the sea. The Portes (Gates), the most famous sight in the gorge, are about 1.5 km from the Agia Roumeli outpost, so a boat to Agia Roumeli and a walk up to them makes a much shorter day.
  • Walk in from the top. You can also walk just a few kilometres in from Xyloskalo, but the return is tiring because the path is steep.
  • Reverse the route. Walking up from Agia Roumeli is possible, ideally after a night there, but the last kilometres climb a steep path and it is not for the unfit.

A sample day by public transport

  • 05:00 or 07:45: bus from Chania to Xyloskalo, about 60 minutes.
  • On arrival: a look at the information centre; show your ticket and start the descent.
  • Morning to afternoon: the walk, about 6–7 hours at an average pace, with rests.
  • Afternoon: arrive in Agia Roumeli; swim, eat and rest.
  • 17:30: boat to Chora Sfakion (about an hour) or Sougia.
  • 18:30 or 18:15: bus back to Chania.

Staying overnight in Agia Roumeli

The park advises staying overnight in Agia Roumeli rather than making a day trip. A night by the sea turns a long, pressured day into a relaxed one: you can walk at your own pace, swim when you arrive, and take a morning boat the next day. It also gives you a safety margin if the wind stops the evening boats.

Practical tips

  • Buy your ticket in advance and keep it for the exit check.
  • Catch an early bus; entry for the full route closes at 13:00.
  • Check for closures the evening before and in the morning.
  • Carry food: there are no shops inside the gorge, so bring food.
  • Carry a bottle: there are several springs inside the gorge where you can refill your water bottle.
  • Plan for the 17:30 boat, and allow a margin for slow stretches.
  • Consider a night in Agia Roumeli, as the park itself suggests.

With children

There is no age limit, but the long, rocky path is not recommended for small children. Older children who are used to long walks can manage it, but the distance and the uneven ground are demanding. The easy way — the boat to Agia Roumeli and a walk up to the Gates — is a better choice for families.

Accessibility

The gorge is not accessible to wheelchairs or anyone with limited mobility: the path is mostly rocky and crosses the river several times on small wooden bridges or stepping stones. The boat trip along the coast from Chora Sfakion to Agia Roumeli, and the village itself, can be enjoyed without entering the gorge.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get to the Samaria Gorge from Chania?

By KTEL bus to Xyloskalo, at 05:00, 07:45 and 08:45 every day; the ride takes about 60 minutes.

How much is the Samaria Gorge ticket?

€10.00 per person, bought online from NECCA. Keep it for the check at the exit.

How do I get back from Agia Roumeli?

By the ANENDYK boat at 17:30 to Chora Sfakion or Sougia, then the bus to Chania at 18:30 from Chora Sfakion or 18:15 from Sougia.

What time do I need to start?

Entry for the full route is allowed from 07:00 to 13:00. Start as early as possible to enjoy the walk and make the evening boat.

Can the gorge be closed?

Yes. It can close for a day or more if rain or a heatwave is expected; the decision is taken the day before.

Can I drive to the Samaria Gorge?

Yes, to Xyloskalo, but you finish at Agia Roumeli. Take the boat to Sougia and the 18:15 bus back up to Xyloskalo, or arrange a taxi.

Is there an easier way to see the gorge?

Yes. Take the boat to Agia Roumeli and walk up towards the Gates, which are about 1.5 km from the Agia Roumeli outpost; the Samaria-the-easy-way tour does exactly this.

Should I stay overnight in Agia Roumeli?

The park recommends it: an overnight stay in Agia Roumeli is preferred to a day trip, and it removes the pressure of the evening boat.